
Bee-bee-beep. Bee-bee-beep. An eight a.m. alarm. A bleary-eyed look out of the window shows a brittle, concrete sky; a glance down to the ground reveals an absence of shimmering puddles. Extra layers, followed by biking leathers, determines the intent.
Outside and the red cover is unclipped and shed. A turn of the key makes the instruments jump into life, bouncing clockwise and then back to rest. A press of the starter button and the familiar bark of the engine announces its awakening. We’re ready.
Down the stony drive and out of the gate, swing round to the clocktower, blipping the growling throttle to the traffic lights, an eager gundog demanding a longer leash.
The A6108. A snaking dipper of tarmac, a gothic ribbon winding through greens and auburns and ochres, bisecting sodden fields studded with implacable sheep dressed in Old English White, bordered by rugged, flinty dry stone walls and naked, spindle-fingered trees. Past the hidden Lightwater Valley, lying low in its eponymous cleft, onwards through Great Stainley and its
valued contribution to the British Sunday lunch, winding up through the gears and the revs, cutting through the icy air under an uncertain sky to Masham, Mass’m to the initiated, and the Dickensian temple to ale, the
Black Sheep Brewery, two o’clock high as the bike turns left and then ninety degrees right.
As this small, beer-based market town disappears in my mirrors, a tight left hand bend flicks past a traditional dovecot, where half a dozen palomas blancas perch prettily, a burlesque confection of feathers and magic tricks, somehow surreal as melting clocks on this bleak winter morning, and onwards into the regal-sounding district of Richmondshire, through the Ellingtons, High and Low.
We’re speeding through Wensleydale and the palette overhead is appropriately milky white, bruised with a yellow that hints at snow, still high and secure, for now. Close to the tumbledown stones of
Jervaulx Abbey, a coven of crows huddles and cackles before taking its fragmented black, broomless flight. The watery light and the stabbing scenery suggest a malevolent air, despite the reasonably civilised hour, and yet we’re at home, the Monster and I, its snarling voice a warning note to dragons and witches, Astras and 3 Series dawdlers. Middleham beckons, recorded in the
Domesday Book, childhood home of Richard the Third and now an equine community as much as an historic one, home to the racehorse trainer Mickey Hammond. And it’s on the approach to Mickey’s yard that we slow, fifth to fourth, fourth into third, down through the gears and easy on the brakes as a string of princely chestnut athletes, each a
Stubbs’ masterpiece brought to graceful high-stepping life, is led by a gaggle of grooms, puffa-jacketed and tweed-capped against the morning, breathing cumulus breath.
***
Later, the bike dry under its cloak of red once more, it’s biblical. Sleet joins the rain, turning to snow high up in the Dales, blown sideways by a dervishgod-driven wind, the elements battering towns, villages and fields alike, an indiscriminate assault on this sceptred, sceptic isle. Too late,
shamen, too late.